No matter where we go in Europe, one constant is an H&M advertisement featuring Lana Del Rey.  From short-loop videos in Norway to walls of giant posters in Berlin, she is everywhere.  In major train stations, along the side of the road, in malls, at landmarks, she constantly looks down at us with her large eyes and poofy hair.  Valerie calls her the “scary lady”.  Given her almost big brother-like omnipresence, I’d have to agree with that description.

On today’s 5 hour train ride from Berlin to Prague, we chatted with an interesting couple from the States that were seated next to us.  Bob, former CEO of Ripley’s Believe It or Not, and his wife retold the stories of their many trips to Europe and other places around the globe.  I think Valerie was very excited to hear about all the marvelous places she hasn’t visited yet.  During the conversation, Valerie kept remarking how we should visit these places during future vacations.

Our guide Alex from yesterday’s tour highly recommended the German History Museum, so we decided to check it out.  The museum covers the history of Germany from about 100 BC to the 1990s.  We arrived at the museum around 12:30 and didn’t leave until almost 17:00.  Originally, we were planning to visit some other Berlin sites like the Topography of Terror or Checkpoint Charlie after the museum, but we were so tired from experiencing the entire history of Germany that we just headed back to the hotel room to pack up for tomorrow’s journey.

Valerie was feeling better today, so we took a 4 hour walking tour of the city.  Our guide Alex led us from Museum Island to Humboldt University to the Brandenburg Gate to just above what once was Hitler’s bunker.

After the tour, we got some lunch and then headed over to two chocolate stores.  The first was Ritter Sport where customers can select custom ingredients for a chocolate bar, come back 30 minutes later, and then eat said bar.  We chose sour cherry, caramelized almonds, and biscuit pieces.  It was delicious!  The second was Fassbender & Rausch which has scale models of the Titanic and Brandenburg Gate made of chocolate.

Valerie might be getting sick, so we spent most of the day resting.

In the evening, we took the S-Bahn to Museum Island. We took a walking tour with free audioguide (German museums seem to love audioguides) of the Neues Museum. The Neues was displaying the famous bust of Queen Nefertiti. We got lost trying to find it, but eventually found our way there and then out of the museum.

Next, we walked through the Pergamon Museum. Shortly before WW I, some German archaeologists discovered a ancient temple (Pergamon) in Turkey and decided to ship as much as they could back to Berlin, where it was eventually reconstructed and put on display. In a similar manner, archaeologists also shipped back a large portion of the walls of Babylon to Berlin for the same purpose. The Pergamon Museum was built to display these ancient buildings. It’s quite impressive to walk through the city walls of Babylon. To think an ancient civilation was able to construct such an engineering marvel is amazing.

Valerie’s been feeling very tired since the train ride from Zurich. We spent most of the day resting. In the evening, we took a bus to Charlottenburg Palace where we took a walking tour (with free audioguide) of the old palace. The palace was quite large, but it seems small in comparison to some of the monstrous palaces in the older European monarchies. Maybe we’ve just seen too many palaces recently.

We asked the owner of the bed and breakfast that we’re staying at about good restaurants in the area. He mentioned some places with Vietnamese, Italian, Austrian, and Irish food. We asked if there were any good German restaurants. After thinking about it for a while, he mentioned that there was a place that he couldn’t remember the name of next to a bus stop. Based on his response, I have a feeling that German food may not be particularly good.

Today was another train day.  We’re took InterCity Express trains from Zurich to Hanover and then onward to Berlin.  Both Valerie and I are worn out by the pace of this trip.  Hopefully, a rest day in Berlin will help us recover.

While reading WikiTravel, I discovered that tap water is not served in restaurants in Germany.  This is a bit disappointing since tap water is usually our beverage of choice.  To see what all the fuss was about, I tried some of the tap water at our hotel.  It tasted almost as bad as the Bath Spa water.  I think it may actually be worse than San Jose water.  Luckily, there’s a Kaiser supermarket across the street that sells 1.5L bottles of water for less than a euro.

Today, we rode two different scenic rail lines on our way to Zurich.  First, we took the Golden Pass panoramic train from Interlaken to Lucerne.  Then, we rode the Wilhelm Tell Express across Lake Lucerne to Fluelen then another train to Bellinzona.  One interesting feature of the Wilhelm Tell Express 1st class train cars is that the seats can be swivelled by pressing buttons on the chair.  The swivel chairs reminded me of something an evil genius would sit in while stroking a white cat and cursing James Bond.

Everything is Zurich is unexpectedly expensive.  I haven’t seen prices this high since Oslo.  Even in the remote mountainous regions of Berner Overland, prices were much less than they are here.  I’m beginning to see why Rick Steves seems to dislike this city.

We took the Rick Steves journey up to Schilthorn today. Schilthorn’s main claim to fame is being the location for the many ski chase scenes in the James Bond movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”. We started our journey in Lauterbrunnen, took the gondola to Grutschalp, walked to Murren, took the gondolas to Schilthorn and back down to Stechelberg, took a bus to Trummelbach Falls, and then walked back to Lauterbrunnen. Schilthorn was pretty, but there was no snow. Trummelbach Falls, which boasts 10 cascading waterfalls, is quite spectacular and definitely worth a visit for those staying in Berner Oberland. On the walk back, we saw a a great number of cows wearing large Swiss cowbells. Despite what the commercials say, the cows in Switzerland seem a lot happier than the cows in California.

Switzerland is beautiful. It was too dark to see last night, but the rivers that flow between Interlaken and Unterseen are an amazing turquoise. I wanted to walk up and touch the 2 degree Celsius water, but I was deterred by the many signs warning about how glacier water can be deadly (they neglected to mention why). On the advice of Chris, we took a train to see the Aareschlucht, a river gorge located just outside of Meiringen. The walk along the schlucht is about a kilometer or two long and mostly handicap accessible (a feature that I value in hiking trails).

Afterward, we tried to visit the Swiss open air museum near Brienz, but gave up after it started raining heavily. Instead, we ate at a Swiss restaurant for dinner and headed back to the hotel to get some rest and book some hotels for Berlin and Prague.