Due to time zone changes and a short layover, we spent most of Tuesday in transit. We flew with Malaysian Airlines from Male to Kuala Lumpur and then from KL to Melbourne. Valerie was a little worried about flying with Malaysian, but the flight was uneventful and the food and service were better than our previous flights.

When we arrived in Melbourne around 10pm, we took the SkyBus to our hotel and then went to sleep. The front desk informed us that an international conference of Jehovah’s Witnesses is being held in Melbourne just as we are leaving. (We have a habit of traveling to places without knowing about major events that are happening in the city at that moment [e.g. London paralympics, Berlin marathon]).

Having not slept much on Tuesday, we woke up around 1pm on Wednesday. We quickly picked up some schnitzel and boarded a tour bus to see the parade of the little penguins on Phillip Island. Valerie really liked watching the little penguins waddle up from the beach to their burrows. We were even lucky enough to see some squabbles between penguins and other penguin mating rituals.

Our hotel transfer back to the airport was at 2pm and our flight wasn’t until 11pm, so we used the extra time to explore the capital city of the Maldives, Male. The city is easily accessible via a $1 ferry ride across the channel that separates the airport island from the city. We walked through the island for a while, checking out its limited tourist sights including the presidential residence and jetty and the tallest flagpole in the Maldives (which isn’t particularly tall). Unfortunately, the national museum closed before we arrived, which was disappointing since it is supposedly air conditioned. After about a half an hour avoiding the cars, taxis, and motorbikes that crowd the small streets, we ate dinner at a nice Thai restaurant near the center of the island (about a 10 minute walk from any other point on the island) before heading back to the airport.

The island that we are staying on is tiny. It takes about 5 minutes to walk from one end to the other. There’s not much to do here except swim, snorkel, dive, and sunbathe. On the first night, we walked around the island and oriented ourselves. We took a quick dip in the pool to practice swimming again.

Valerie had initially considered scuba diving around the island, but she’s been a bit stuffy lately and thinks she would have too much trouble equalizing to successfully dive. (She may have caught whatever I picked up on the last day of the cruise.) For the last few days, we have been snorkeling in the house reef around the island. The island is encircled by a breakwater-type concrete wall with 6 entry/exit points for snorkelers and divers. Within the wall, the water is very warm and shallow and there isn’t much to see as much of the coral is covered by sand and the fish don’t seem to like sandy coral. Just outside the wall there are between 5 and 30 meters of relatively shallow reef before a steep cliff-like drop-off to the deeper reef below. This shallow reef is where all the fish seem to hang out. We’ve seen a whole bunch of colorful fish as well as sharks and rays. I think Valerie has been very happy with the snorkeling on this island.

We have snorkeled out of all 6 of the marked exit points. The exits on the windward side of the island lead to big fish (about half human sized) and rays, but the water is choppy which makes it hard to snorkel. The water on the leeward side is less choppy and has a large reef full of smaller fish, but the exit is very shallow during low tide which can make it difficult to access. The exit near the dive shop in the middle (lengthwise) of the island is the easiest to access, but the shallow reef is smallest at this point. (This area is probably better for divers).

When we’re not in the ocean, one annoyance is that the resort only provides a 500mL bottle of water per person per day. If you want to drink more than that, you have to buy bottled water or other beverages. (The resort recommends against drinking the tap water, even if boiled.) Our kind housekeeping attendant has noticed Valerie’s voracious appetite for water and refills our mini-bar with water every night. We’re accumulating quite a collection of empty water bottles in our room.

The international airport in Male, Maldives is much smaller than most of the ones we’ve been to so far. Located on an island a short distance away from the main island, the airport appeared to have 3 airplanes on the tarmac at the time we landed. Outside of the small terminal were a collection of fast food restaurants and a harbor from which passengers can board a speedboat or ferry to the island of their choosing.

We waited about an hour for our speedboat to arrive and then took the 90 minute ride to the Chaaya Reef Ellaidhoo resort where we are staying. Valerie picked this resort because they allegedly have a very nice house reef that we can snorkel around.

Our flight from Doha to Male is very early in the morning, so we are staying the night in Doha today. After flying into Qatar, we visited the incredible business class lounge at Hamad International Airport. This is the best lounge I have ever visited, by far. It is huge, with two restaurants, tons of seating, a quiet room, storage lockers, showers, and basically anything that anyone could think to put in an airport lounge. We contemplated spending the night in the lounge, but Valerie cannot sleep in anything but a bed, so we booked an 8-hour room at the Airport Hotel (which surprisingly has a pool).

Before going to sleep, we took a free city tour of Doha offered by the Qatar Tourism Authority and Qatar Airways. About 3 hours long, the tour showed off the ongoing development projects of Doha. It also provided insight into the culture of Qatar and its economic development.

On our first day in Dubai, we saw new Dubai. On our second day, we saw old Dubai. On our third, we wanted to see tourist Dubai, so we took a taxi to the Dubai Marina / Jumeirah Beach Resort. The beach actually looked pretty nice and the Persian Gulf waters were very warm. Sadly, we didn’t bring along our swimwear.

We ate a quick lunch at a local Pakistani restaurant and then took a taxi to the Atlantis hotel on Jumeirah Palm (a set of islands shaped like a palm tree when viewed from space). The public area of Atlantis was fairly small and crowded. The water park didn’t look as good as the ones back home. To get a better view of the palm islands, we took the monorail back to the trunk of the tree. Annoyingly, the monorail doesn’t connect to the metro (and the new Dubai tram isn’t opening for another two months), so we had to get a taxi to the Metro station.

On a whim, we decided to walk around Deira, the area where our hotel is located. Valerie found a self-guided food tour online. Sadly, many of the places were closed, but we were able to buy some really delicious falafels and desserts.

We are really good at accidentally visiting places at times during which everything is closed. The religious holiday Eid al-Adha is this weekend, which was unfortunate for us for several reasons. First, our room at the Crowne Plaza offers a free cocktail hour, but the government of Dubai prohibited all alcohol service during the first day of Eid. Second, when we decided to walk through the “old” town of Bur Dubai, many shops were closed. We wandered through the nearby souks for a while, deftly avoiding a myriad of touts, until the Dubai Museum opened. For only 3 AED, the museum is quite a bargain and gives a good overview of the history of Dubai (which isn’t very long; the modern city-state has only existed for a few hundred years and during many of those years there was very little writing).

After the museum, we found a restaurant that was surprisingly open even though everything else in its historical souk was closed. After a fine lunch of middle eastern cuisine, we walked along Dubai Creek before walking to the Metro to take us back to the hotel.

Without Rick Steves’s guidance, we were at a loss for what to do in Dubai. We consulted TripAdvisor for some ideas. Our first stop was Dubai Mall, one of the largest malls in the Middle East (and the world). We wandered around for quite a while, marveling at the aquarium and admiring the many fountains and statues. We ate a nice lunch at Potbelly’s and then wandered to an adjacent mall and then to look at the tallest building in the world, the Burj Khalifa. (We were too cheap to pay for the elevator ride to the top.) Around 6pm, we wandered back to Dubai Mall to watch the Bellagio-style fountain show.

A shuttle picked us up at the B&B around 8:30am to take us to the airport. First we flew to Doha in Qatar and then to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Our flight arrived around 11pm and then it took about 1.5 hours to work our way through the extremely slow immigration line at Dubai airport. (Dubai airport seriously needs to improve the queueing system for the passport control area.)

We took a taxi to our hotel, but we mistakenly took an executive taxi instead of a normal taxi, which cost us an additional $10 for the ride. For other travelers to Dubai, take special care to read the giant sign at the front of the taxi queue before boarding a taxi; it can save you money.

Valerie and I had seen the major sights in the center of Rome during our last visit, so this time we just strolled from our B&B to Trastevere, stopping at interesting churches along the way. The first church we visited was actually built on top of another church, which itself was built on top of another church. Outside this church, we got swindled by a guy accepting “donations for the church.” (We only ever get swindled in Italy. I wonder why…)

After walking past the coliseum, we tried to visit a church with a statue of Moses by Michelangelo, but it was unfortunately closed, so we continued our stroll. Once we reached Trastevere, we stopped for lunch at a place recommended by TripAdvisor.

Our last church of the day was the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano. It was surprisingly grand for a church that I hadn’t heard of before this visit. It is the oldest church in Rome, which is impressive for a city with so many historic churches.

Finally, we headed back to the B&B, picking up some pizza for dinner.